MODELLING 101 - Part 1: Modelling genres - The Fashion Model

Modelling can be divided into 3 broad categories:  fashion, commercial, and glamour.  There are many smaller categories in modelling, which fall under these broad categories, and often categories blur into one.  In this post I’ll be discussing fashion modelling.

Fashion modelling is probably the main reason why people get into modelling.  The reason being, that these are the images we’re exposed to in glossy magazines, of models wearing the latest fashions.  These are the models strutting down designer runways and gracing the covers of fashion magazines.  Often you’ll recognize their faces, and if they fall into the category of “supermodel”, you’ll even know their names.

Fashion modelling is where the big bucks can be earned, and for that reason it can be pursued as a full-time career.  It is also the category of modelling with the strictest physical requirements.  Often fashion models can cross over into other categories of modelling, but the reverse is rare.  The versatility of the fashion model makes her a valuable asset for model agencies, which is why many agencies focus on recruiting models that fulfil the fashion model requirements.

Fashion designers cut garments according to a sample size, which they consider the ideal body shape for displaying their designs.  Thus, the one thing all fashion models have in common is that they’re all tall and slender.  These are the specific requirements for female fashion models:

1.)   Height: 5’8” to 6’ – very rarely a shorter or taller model may become a successful fashion model, e.g. Kate Moss.  This is often due to other factors, for example the support of a very influential person in the industry, the prevailing trend of the times, or a model with a particularly unique look or attitude.

2.)   Age:  15 to 19 years old – fashion models are always “discovered” at a young age, sometimes as young as 13 years.  The reason for this is that it takes a while to build a model’s resume, and agencies want models to be ready and skilled when they peak around age 18. Agencies also want to get as much return on their investment, so they want to get as much time out a model, before she becomes too old for fashion modelling. Generally a fashion model’s career will stay strong into her early to mid 20’s, when she’ll have to transition into other categories of modelling.  Those at the top of the industry, the models who have become brands and celebrities, can carry on working as fashion models well into their 30’s or even older.

3.)   Weight:  With the exception of plus-size models, fashion models have to be very slender (size 8 to 10).  Maintaining your weight is essential and agencies will come down on you like a ton of bricks if you gain weight – no point taking it personally, it’s just business.  Recently there has been a move towards banning models with a BMI (Body Mass Index) of less than 18, due to the controversy surrounding eating disorders.

4.)   Looks:  For fashion, a model does not have to be classically beautiful.  Having an interesting look can be just as advantageous

5.)   Other physical attributes:  Not especially large breasts (34C being the upper limit), no tattoos or piercings, not highly tanned skin and excessive stretch marks.  As is the case with all modelling, a clear complexion, good teeth, and a toned physique is necessary.

Fashion modelling is highly competitive.  When up against scores of other models who fulfil the same standard requirements, a model’s attitude, resilience and adaptability can make the difference between success and failure.  The life of a fashion model may be exciting and glamorous, but it can also be very challenging, especially for young girls. 

On the upside, fashion modelling offers you the opportunity to travel to exotic locations, meet many new people, have a full social life, and earn a good income (better than most girls the same age). BUT, you’ll be required to move to a major fashion centre, which may mean leaving friends and family behind.  You’ll be exposed to chancers, drugs, pressure to lose weight, rejection after rejection at casting calls, and plenty of egotistical people. 

If you fulfil the physical requirements, have the strength of character to stay out of trouble, and the resilience to deal with rejection and pressure, then fashion modelling may be just the right thing for you.

Simon

My new blog series: MODELLING 101 - A guide for new and aspiring models

I've been working as a modelling scout and photographer for the past 8 years. Much of my work has been with new and aspiring models, and I’ve always enjoyed the process of guiding models and helping them find their place in the modelling industry.

It’s a big industry, offering a wide variety of avenues to pursue, depending on a model’s physical attributes, goals, and tenacity.  Unfortunately, from the outside, modelling seems like a profession that’s almost impossible to break into, due to the strict physical requirements most people perceive to be the rule for ALL modelling.

Unless you’ve been blessed with the perfect modelling genes, you most certainly will have to adjust your expectations. But even if you’re not the “perfect model”, you can still pursue a successful part-time, or even full-time, career in modelling.  Having a good understanding of the modelling industry, having the right portfolio, and approaching the right people, is essential for finding your place in this industry.  Knowledge is power, which is why I want to give you the information you need to guide you through the modelling industry maze.  The rest is entirely up to you.

Tenacity and resilience will go a long way to get you ahead in this business. So too will a little luck, a lot of energy, a good attitude, and, most importantly, strong support from people like your parents, who have a genuine interest in your wellbeing and some wisdom in financial and business matters -  try going up against the hardened sharks in this business alone and you will see just how quickly a small fish in a big pond can be eaten.

In this series, Modelling 101, I’ll be covering topics like: modelling genres (types) and the physical requirements for each; portfolios and comp cards; choosing and approaching an agency; casting calls and networking; legal matters and potential scams to avoid; working with a photographer; the harsh realities of modelling and the qualities that will get you ahead; and modelling terminology.

I don't really want to hear from you, but if you must, feel free to comment on posts or tell me about your experiences as a model or other professional in the industry.  I’d be happy to answer any questions you may have.

Let's get this going!

Simon

Houston, we have lift-off

Here we go...finally, the blog the world wasn't waiting for :-)

It will be fitting to start this first blog post by thanking all the amazing people who have made my photography dream possible.  Over the years I've had the good fortune to work with fantastic people in the modeling and fashion industry; people who generously shared their skill and talent, and helped me grow and attain my professional goals.  It would be impossible and unfair to attempt a list of all those people here, as I'm bound to leave someone out.  I will be going into more detail in future posts, but here are just a few people who've made a difference.

Irene was my favourite model: cheerful, enthusiastic, cheeky, laid-back, and always fun to work with.  Thanks to her I did some of my best photography so far.  I could fill an entire site with her images; they're that good.  She has the most gorgeous body and face, and the personality to go with it.  Irene, I salute you :-)

Belinda was the story that touched my heart.  A few weeks after I first photographed her, she went through the most terrible time, with personal and family disasters that would have destroyed a weaker person.  At our next meeting, she returned determined, focused, and completely certain about her direction in the modeling world.  She bugged me until I finally took her to see a model management company from Cape Town, where they instantly recognized her as a diamond.  She is perfect fashion material: tall, slender, and beautiful.  Belinda not only made me proud as a photographer, she is also the daughter I never knew.  I respect everything she achieved and worked for.  Today Belinda is a successful model represented by Star Model Management, with an impressive portfolio.

Link to Belinda's Portfolio

Lastly for now, I have to mention Tanya, without whom I would never have got off my arse and made an effort.  Tanya is my Muse, my inspiration.  Lovely in every way, intelligent, she makes my world worth living in.  Gem is the result of one very lazy man and a beautiful woman with a vision.  I'm in your debt X

Simon